Cobbler Union
Goodyear welt shoes, manufactured by Andres Sendra in Spain
Philosophy
American brand founded in Atlanta, manufactured by Andres Sendra in Spain. Cobbler Union offers good Goodyear welt at fair prices, often with interesting promotions. Cited among enthusiasts, as a decent option in the $300-400 segment, but you're paying an intermediary versus buying directly from Andres Sendra.
History
Daniel Porcelli grew up in Patagonia, played competitive tennis, and arrived in the US in 1989. In New York, the founder of the consulting firm where he worked on Park Avenue taught him to appreciate fine things, London raincoats, Venetian cashmere shirts, Swiss watches. Porcelli started with Church's, then worked his way up. The obsession was born.
His childhood friend Norman Vilalta, a lawyer turned shoemaker, trained under Stefano Bemer in Florence before opening his own bespoke workshop in Barcelona. Porcelli joined as CEO for two and a half years. They met Philip Carr at Saint Crispin's, Antoine Arnault at Berluti, Tony Gaziano, the Carmina people. Porcelli discovered the trade from the top, through bespoke. But the collaboration ended badly, and the childhood friendship didn't survive.
In 2014, Porcelli moved to Atlanta with Stephen Beehler and launched Cobbler Union as a direct-to-consumer brand, inspired by the Warby Parker model. Manufacturing is entrusted to a family workshop in Almansa, Spain, in Andres Sendra's orbit. Goodyear welt, over 70 components, 200 operations, 25 artisans per pair. The positioning: bespoke-inspired shoes under $400.
The Atlanta store on Ponce de Leon Ave has since closed. Cobbler Union is now 100% online via Shopify. Among enthusiasts, opinions are mixed: the leathers and design (notably the fiddleback waist) are praised, but QC issues recur, sole cracks, water sensitivity of the leather. At $285-365, the consensus is "good value on sale, but you're paying an intermediary versus buying from Andres Sendra directly". Known investor: Infinity Capital.
Iconic Products
Richard Cap-Toe Oxford (City Last)
The classic oxford of the range. City last, black or brown calf, leather sole with fiddleback waist, a rare detail at this price point. Goodyear welt, made in Almansa. The most reviewed model among enthusiasts, positive consensus on design, some QC reservations.
William III Chelsea Boot
Calf leather Chelsea boot, 888 last. Goodyear welt construction, leather sole. The model that put the brand on the map on forums. Reports of sole cracking on some pairs, the brand's historical weak point.
Alex Wingtip Derby
Black calf longwing derby, 675 last. The spectator model with which Porcelli launched the brand, a bold choice for a first shoe. Fiddleback waist, elegant perforations, €365.