Loake ⚠️ With reservations

English Goodyear welt shoes, Kettering factory since 1880

🇬🇧 United Kingdom, Kettering Founded in 1880 $$

Note: only the '1880' line is made in Kettering with Goodyear welt. Other lines (Design, Lifestyle) are produced in India or elsewhere with lesser constructions.

Philosophy

Established in 1880, Loake is a cornerstone of Kettering's shoemaking heritage. While the house maintains its prestigious 1880 line - handcrafted in England with traditional Goodyear welting - it has also expanded into entry-level ranges produced overseas. The brand today represents a balance between historical English craftsmanship and modern commercial accessibility, requiring the savvy buyer to choose their line with care.

History

Founded in 1880 in Kettering, Northamptonshire, by the brothers Thomas, John, and William Loake, the company is a pillar of the English shoemaking tradition. Located in the heart of the British footwear industry, Loake built its century-long reputation on the rigorous standards of the Goodyear welted construction. The house was granted a Royal Warrant in 2007, a testament to its long-standing status as a reliable provider of classic British footwear.

However, the brand's modern legacy is complicated by its diverse production lines. While the premium "1880" line is still authentically manufactured in the Kettering factory using quality calf leathers and traditional methods, other ranges such as the "Design" and "Lifestyle" collections are outsourced to India and other locations. These lower-tier lines often employ Blake or cemented constructions and inferior leathers, which has led to significant criticism among enthusiasts.

On forums like les passionnés, the consensus is clear: the 1880 line remains a decent, honest choice comparable to Spanish makers like Berwick, but the name "Loake" alone no longer guarantees English manufacturing or high-end construction. For the discerning buyer, reading the label and verifying the specific line is now an essential part of the Loake experience.

Iconic Products

1880 Aldwych

Cap-toe Oxford from the 1880 line. Kettering-made, Goodyear welt, calf leather. The best of Loake, the product that still justifies the name. Honest build, comparable to Berwick. The shoe to buy if you want a Loake.

1880 Shoemaker

Derby from the 1880 line. Goodyear welt, Kettering. More casual than the Aldwych, same construction. The weekend shoe from the premium range. Same advice: verify it's an 1880, not Design or Lifestyle.

Design/Lifestyle (a eviter)

The lines to avoid. India production, Blake or cemented, inferior leather. Loake name on the label but neither Kettering nor Goodyear welt. Same price buys a superior Meermin or Berwick. The product diluting the house's reputation.

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