TLB Mallorca

Toni knows every step of manufacturing because he does them all. The Inca factory produces for TLB, Skolyx, Prince Jorge - every pair from the same floor. At 400 euros, les passionnés can't find better. 'Super slept on.'

Toni Llobera Barcelo comes from a family of Mallorcan leather craftsmen. His father and grandfather have been making leather belts and accessories for over 40 years in Inca, Mallorca - the island's historic shoe city. Toni grew up in workshops but turned to footwear.

He joined Yanko as factory manager. Yanko was Inca's giant: 600 employees, one million pairs a year in the 90s. The families now running Carmina and Meermin all worked at Yanko. The Rain, Simpson, Inca lasts circulating in the industry are direct descendants of old Yanko lasts. It's the cradle of Spanish Goodyear welt shoemaking.

Toni left Yanko and took over a women's shoe factory in Inca, converting it to men's Goodyear welt. TLB was born in 2010 - the founder's initials. The factory is complete: from leather cutting to finishing, everything done on-site. Toni did everything himself initially, from prototyping to staff training.

Leathers come from Europe's best tanneries: Annonay and Charles F. Stead for suede (full reverse calf exclusively). Soles are JR for the Artista line. Each pair goes through over 150 manual operations.

The standard line is around 300 euros. The Artista line, launched in 2019 with help from blog Shoegazing and Skolyx, pushes further: exclusive Picasso (soft chisel) and Van Gogh lasts, extremely slim waists, real leather heel stiffeners (not board), JR soles, 8 SPI stitching. Details normally found only on bespoke, at 425 euros.

TLB also manufactures for Skolyx (Sweden) and Prince Jorge. Same factory, same floor, same standards.

Among enthusiasts, the consensus is clear: "pretty much the highest quality at the 400 euro price point," "super slept on," "best MTO shell cordovan option." Compared favorably to Crockett & Jones by some users, for less. The most underrated brand in the segment.